Acceleration problem with JRSC

[mgro]

I recently installed a JRSC kit. I've had some fuel problems in the beginning, but those are solved now. I got myself a gtech pro to see how the car performs.
By looking at comparable cars in the archives of this forum I estimate that my car's pre-blown acceleration (0-60) should be about 6.5...7 seconds (it dynoed at 151 WHP before I got the JRSC). Unfortunately, I didn't get the gtech until I got the blower, so I've no reference measurement.
I made several runs. The best was 6.9 seconds. The maximum acceleration in first is 0.51g, and in second its 0.38. I need to shift to third to get to 60MPH.

This is a bit disappointing to say the least!! JR states that the 0-60 and QM times should be reduced by 1.5..2 seconds, but the car is barely faster than when it rolled out of the factory!! It cannot be only my driving causing this, just take a look at the acceleration in first/second. Cars with comparable setups make .6 to .7 g's in first.
Any ideas???

The cars runs fine otherwise. It feels much torquier in the mid range than it did before, but it does seem to roll off above 7krpms a bit. A/F is OK over the range (a bit rich perhaps). The baseline timing is set to 16 deg, rising rate set to 0.3deg/psi, start of retard set to 2 psi. These setting lead to a barely visible flicker of the J&S monitor LED now and then so no knock related retard.

btw: I checked the gtech by pointing it up and down- it shows 1.00 and 1.02 g's respectively, so that shouldn't be the problem.

My current setup:
1994 Civic HB (B16A2), about 80000 miles. The car doesn't consume oil (noticeable).
Michelin street tires (195-50-15)
DC 4-1 header, cat replacement, 2.25..2.5" catback system
cold air intake
stock JRSC kit (about 7psi)
Endyn Bosch fuel pump
B&M Commandflo
J&S Ultra Safeguard
several gauges

[replica667]

I have the same problem with my civic d15y7. It's not much faster than stock. Have you taken it to a tunning shop? I was told that an un-tuned jrsc is a real peice of crap, and I agree.

[Blown_Integra]

A civic HB 0-60 times are no where near 6.5sec. So I think if you use some more realistic (before SC) 0-60 times then you won't be so confused.

[G3-TEG]

Remember, driver skill during the launch plays a huge role in the 0-60mph times.

[mgro]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by G3-TEG:
Remember, driver skill during the launch plays a huge role in the 0-60mph times.</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, I agree, and I'm definitely not the most practiced driver yet!

But if you take a look at the maximum acceleration in each gear, you'll see that even with the ideal driver this car will never get below 6.5 seconds! The average acceleration if you spend 50% of the time in gear 1 and the rest in second is (0.51+0.38)*9.81/2. If you allow for 0.1 second gear shift time, it will take you 6.5 seconds to reach 100km/hr!! In actual fact, second gear gets me close to 100km/hr (the speedo says I'm there), but I have to shift to third to satisfy the Gtech.

BTW: I just realized that I have the metric version of the Gtech, and 60MPH is only about 96.5 km/hr. My unit shows 0-100km/hr acceleration. This "improves" my time by 3.5% so 0-60 should be around 6.7 sec.

Does anyone have max acceleration measurements for each gear?

Thanks,

Mark.

[reddelsol]

If you can get it dynoed again I would. If the hp shows up on the dyno, then it's only the driving [img]smile.gif[/img]

...well, those are lousy drag tires also

I'd bet the car is running rich if anything. You can always check the plugs after awhile and see if they haven't turned black.

...or another possibility, belt could be slipping

[mgro]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by reddelsol:
If you can get it dynoed again I would. If the hp shows up on the dyno, then it's only the driving [img]smile.gif[/img]

...well, those are lousy drag tires also

I'd bet the car is running rich if anything. You can always check the plugs after awhile and see if they haven't turned black.

...or another possibility, belt could be slipping</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

The car is running VERY rich. At WOT, the O2 sensor puts out 0.9..0.95 Volts, so A/F is probably in the 10s. I know that best power is made at about 13:1, but richer is safer. Does this make a big difference in power?

About belt slippage: How can you tell its slipping, and which belt is most likely to? I don't hear anything like the squeal of a loose alternator belt, and boost levels appear normal. But I confess I didn't use a belt tensionometer when adjusting the belts.

Mark.